WK 4: Oh, hello there, Gravity

Anse Major, Mahe, Seychelles

Buoyed by the previous weekend's snorkel adventure, I was keen on tackling a terrestrial challenge this past Sunday. Though the adventure took an acute deviation from my original plans, I thoroughly enjoyed the experience. Even so, I was ever-so-slightly deflated by the effort. Thankfully, the week successfully reinvigorated my spirits; from daily dives to the discovery of the 8th ocean and academics to practice methodology surveys, it was another full week in the Seychelles.

Sunday's aim was to trek from Beau Vallon to Base following a footpath through Morne Seychellois National Park. Everything was going smoothly until I arrived at Anse Major where the footpath simply ceased to exist... I should have swallowed my pride then and there. Instead, I decided to improvise by scaling a cliff face and wrestling the jungle overgrowth. So much for the footpath.

Anse Major, Mahe, Seychelles

Trekking through the dense foliage in the general direction I wanted to go seemed like a good idea at the onset... but after a good hour, gravity got the best of me. While attempting to shimmy along a near vertical cliff ace littered with detritus, I misjudged a grip and fell few meters. Thankfully, the very jungle I'd been fighting to climb absorbed a majority of the impact; while my backpack (the very reason my center of gravity was all askew) took the brunt of the landing impact. I only suffered a few minor cuts along with severely diminished  moral. So with that, I called a cease fire and decided to return to Beau Vallon. Gravity-1, V-0.

Week 4 began with our routine Monday Camp clean as well as our Plankton Pull and Turtle Dives. My buddy, Meg, and I were dropped off near the Lighthouse to conduct our search. Despite our most earnest effort, our turtle dive was turtle-less. We kept our eyes open, scanning the crystal clear blue waters- but the turtles evaded our gaze. However, we did spot a Crown-of-thorns Sea Star, a devastating coral predator and one monitored closely. Even though we didn't find any turtles, our dive was not without merit!

Conducting a buddy check before a dive

Back on base, there was an awesome event that drastically altered daily life- a newly discovered ocean! For the past week or so, we'd been coping with flooding in the women's bathroom. It wasn't so bad, an inconvenient puddle to be mopped up now and again. But, after a plumber visited base to fix the issue... water levels escalated to an outrageous level, nearly 2 inches at its deepest! Water engulfed both the women's and men's bathrooms, creeping into an adjacent dormitory as well. Thankfully, the plumber returned to base and repaired the waterline; so by midweek life carried on swimmingly- with less a little swimming and a little less ocean.

Safely on land, we've continued our training by choosing survey specializations and learning to identify 13 specific sea cucumbers. There were two areas of specialization to pick from: invertebrate or benthic organisms. I chose to specialize in identifying invertebrates to spice up forthcoming surveys. The invertebrates surveyed serve as indicators of the overall health of the reef's ecosystem, serving an important part of reef species diversity, function, and appeal. Had I chosen to specialize in benthic organisms, I'd have continued studying immobile reef organisms, learning to distinguish soft corals as well as algae, sponges and other sessile creatures. In addition to these specialties, everyone has been required to differentiate sea cucumbers which inhabit Seychelles waters. The addition of new organisms to monitor has helped to reinvigorate both the academic and underwater aspects of base life.

Can you Sea us?

It's been fulfilling to have finally passed the exams. By midweek, we began utilising our training during practice methodology dives. Over the past few days, I've been buddied up with Meg for Coral Diversity Belt Dives. Over the course of 45-50 minutes, we've been conducting practice surveys under the guidance of staff Divemasters. The Coral Diversity Belt Dive covers an area 50 meters long and 5 meters wide over which coral diversity and commercial invertebrate species are tallied. Despite our most earnest efforts, Meg and I have been unable to complete a 50 meter belt yet. However, we're learning to battle surge and become more efficient with each dive, so I'm certain will be checked off on our practice methodology soon.

Next week is the halfway mark for the coral monitoring phase of my stay here in the Seychelles- how time flies when you're underwater.

WK 3: What A Waterful World

Filling tanks for the day's dives

This past week was full of wonderful experiences, punctuated with a Hawaiian themed Friday night BBQ. I made the most of every moment, embarking on the 'Marathon Snorkel', scouring the reef for megafauna, and celebrating this wonderful world by diving for Earth Day and conducting a beach clean. Amidst all the oceanic adventures, I managed to pass both coral identifying exams and have made headway in my BTEC Biological Survey Techniques and Team Leading courses. It was another full week, but I'd have it no other way.

Not wishing to let the weekend slip idly by, I set forth on a solo snorkel adventure around the northwestern tip of Bay Ternay and down the channel to Anse Souillac, referred to as 'Back Beach'. The journey took an epic 3.5 hours to complete and is affectionately referred to as the Mega or Marathon Snorkel on base.

A Hawksbill turtle meanders about the reef

Though it was the furthest (3.5 miles) and longest I'd ever snorkeled before, the time flew by as I was entranced with the underwater world teeming with life. Schools of fish shimmered past, their dynamic formations sparkling underwater as they darted past me. A humphead wrasse, larger than myself lazily swam below me, dwarfing all the other fish. I was even fortunate enough to swim along with a Hawksbill turtle for a while, doing my best to not draw attention to myself. When the turtle did see me, it sped off behind me toward deeper waters- and that's when I saw the massive barracuda that had been following me for who knows how long... he was enormous, just shy of 2 meters, and watched me intensely with its beady eyes. It took a lot of nerve to keep my wits about me, but I just kept swimming and eventually snorkeled to Back Beach without incident. I did suffer from cramps in both feet along the way, but a little free floating was a quick remedy to the pain. Embarking on the snorkel was the perfect way to begin the week.

Massive barracuda and a Hawksbill turtle below

The days rolled along as the rigorous schedule settled into everyone's system and routines established. Wednesday's turtle dive was a futile attempt at finding turtles for my dive buddy and I, but we had the opportunity to explore a new area of Bay Ternay. The drop off point was quite deep and the water much more turbid than where we've been conducting Coral Spots and skill dives. After descending to 16 meters, the bottom was nowhere to be seen- so my buddy, Dan, and I marked the bearing for shore and started our U-Pattern in hopes of reaching shallower, clearer waters. After, 20 minutes of navigating darkness, we found the edge of the reef and the ocean suddenly came to life. Delicate corals decorated the substrate as colorful fish swam above, foraging for food. Though we did not see any turtles, we caught a glimpse of a moray eel as it peeked out its head from a small crevice, which made the turtle dive a success in my book!

View of the Lighthouse from the ocean

We celebrated this beautiful world by conducting a reef clean in conjuction with Project AWARE's Dive for Earth Day 2011. In teams of 4, we set out in search of rubbish on Mahe's NW reefs. While scouring the reef for garbage, my team was fortunate enough to see an impressive number of megafauna (almost overshadowing our main purpose); 3 thornback rays sifted through the sands searching for food, a moray eel popped out of an under-hang to say hello as a lion fish flared its fins, and a rock fish nearly fooled us for being part of the substrate just before our ascent. It was one of the most fun and fulfilling dives I've been on yet!

Just a sample of garbage collected for the day...

Setting aside our dive kits and smeering on half a bottle of sunscreen, we continued our Earth celebration on the beaches near base. We set out with large sacks and combed the beach front for garbage. Considering the remote location, I was astounded by the vast amount of waste which we collected- everything from shoes and bottles to a lightpost and even a rake! We filled all of our sacks and sent them off to the Marine Parks Authority to be sorted and disposed of properly.

I ♥ Friday Night BBQ!

I've made progress in my aim to identify corals on sight and earn my BTEC certifications this week. In order to become qualified to survey our coral monitoring sites, every individual must pass two coral exams in conjunction with correctly identifying corals proficiently on Coral Spot dives. We've had two coral exams this week, and I was able to pass both (95% or higher is required to pass). So, with a little luck and focus, I'll be out monitoring sites by the end of next week or so...

But, even if it takes a little longer, I'll have my hands full as my two BTEC have begun. By the end of my first 10 weeks here, I should have a BTEC Biological Survey Certification and Level 2 BTEC Award in Team Leading. These will be time intensive but relevant courses to my work here, affording me the opportunity to lead a survey dive and put my biological survey skills to the test in open waters.

SSJHXFVNFZX4

Seychelles Dive Log #1

By the Numbers: Bi-Weekly Dive Log
Dive #1	3/4/2011
Dive Time: 08:15	Bottom Time: 46 minutes
Max Depth: 5.6 meters	Water Temperature: 28-30
Visibility: 10-12 meters
Air Consumption: 265 bar → 165 bar
Gear: 4lb weight belt, 3/4mm full wetsuit
Notes: Played tic-tac-toe in the sand with Jack
Seychelles Bottom Time: 46 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 5.6 meters
Dive #2	4/4/2011
Dive Time: 14:14	Bottom Time: 48 minutes
Max Depth: 5.8 meters	Water Temperature: 28-30
Visibility: 10-12 meters
Air Consumption: 2700 psi → 1900 psi
Gear: 4lb weight belt, 3/4mm full wetsuit
Notes: *Peak Performance Bouyancy* Neutral Bouyancy, Cross-Legged Hover, Up-Side-Down Hover, Hoop Swim, Hoop Swim w/extra weight
Seychelles Bottom Time: 94 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 5.8 meters
Dive #3	5/4/2011
Dive Time: 09:55	Bottom Time: 44 minutes
Max Depth: 11.4 meters	Water Temperature: 29
Visibility: 12-14 meters
Air Consumption: 220 bar → 150 bar
Gear: 4lb weight belt, 3/4mm full wetsuit
Notes: *Underwater Naturalist* Turtle, Nudibranch, Algae, Sea Cucumber, Sea Urchin, Montipora, Acropora, Pocillipora, Porites, Galaxea
Seychelles Bottom Time: 138 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 11.4 meters
Dive #4	6/4/2011
Dive Time: 15:43	Bottom Time: 42 minutes
Max Depth: 13.1 meters	Water Temperature: 30
Visibility: 10-12 meters
Air Consumption: 175 bar → 120 bar
Gear: 2lb weight belt, 2mm neoprene jacket
Notes: *Boat* Backwards Roll Entry, Eels, Lobsters
Seychelles Bottom Time: 180 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 13.1 meters
Dive #5	7/4/2011
Dive Time: 09:21	Bottom Time: 50 minutes
Max Depth: 9.6 meters	Water Temperature: 30
Visibility: 8-10 meters
Air Consumption: 2600 psi → 1700 psi
Gear: 2lb weight belt, 2mm neoprene jacket
Notes: *Navigation* 20 meters-18 kicks, 10 meters-9 kicks, natural navigation for 20 meters, reciprocal heading navigation for 20 meters, 30 meter square navigation, played tic-tac toe and hangman on dive slate with Julia
Seychelles Bottom Time: 230 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 13.1 meters
Dive #6	8/4/2011
Dive Time: 14:01	Bottom Time: 26 minutes
Max Depth: 23.4 meters	Water Temperature: 29
Visibility: 8-10 meters
Air Consumption: 210 bar → 155 bar
Gear: 2lb weight belt, 2mm neoprene jacket
Notes: *Deep* Effects of depth on visible light, effects of depth on air density, played with a cracked egg underwater, realized the effect of depth on basic motor skills, maintained neutral buoyancy during deep swim
Seychelles Bottom Time: 256 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 23.4 meters
Dive #7	11/4/2011
Dive Time: 15:27	Bottom Time: 34 minutes
Max Depth: 8.4 meters	Water Temperature: 27
Visibility: 8-10 meters
Air Consumption: 2800 psi → 1900 psi
Gear: 2lb weight belt, 2mm neoprene jacket
Notes: *Turtle Dive* Vero navigation guru, no turtles, swam in U-pattern towards rocks BTE
Seychelles Bottom Time: 290 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 23.4 meters
Dive #8	12/4/2011
Dive Time: 09:18	Bottom Time: 49 minutes
Max Depth: 12.7 meters	Water Temperature: 29
Visibility: 8-10 meters
Air Consumption: 2600 psi → 1700 psi
Gear: 2lb weight belt, 2mm neoprene jacket
Notes: Coral Spot Dive w/Lee, Sam, Malcolm. ID: lobophyllia, astreopora, herpolitha, porites, cycloseris (big!), turbinaria, fungia, podabacia, psammocora, montipora, *pocillopra → montipora*
Seychelles Bottom Time: 339 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 23.4 meters
Dive #9	13/4/2011
Dive Time: 12:21	Bottom Time: 47 minutes
Max Depth: 9.1 meters	Water Temperature: 29
Visibility: 8-10 meters
Air Consumption: 2700 psi → 1300 psi
Gear: No weights, Long-sleeve rashguard
Notes: Coral Spot Dive w/Brian, Nick, Malcolm. ID: *merulina → pavona, *alveopora → goniopora, pavona, *stylocoeniella → podabacia (styles), stylocoeniella, turbinaria, *montipora (peaked), mycedium, pavona, gardineroseris, pavona, hydophora, *pavona (very fine septa)
Seychelles Bottom Time: 386 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 23.4 meters
Dive #10	14/4/2011
Dive Time: 11:23	Bottom Time: 52 minutes
Max Depth: 14.8 meters	Water Temperature: 29
Visibility: 8-10 meters
Air Consumption: 2700 psi → 1500 psi
Gear: No weights, Short-sleeve beneath Long-sleeve rashguard
Notes: Coral Spot Dive w/Grace, Dan, Julia. ID: Pavona, Halomitra, Leptoseris, Hydnophora, *Gardineroseris → Psammocora, Turbinaria, Montipora, Pavona, Turbinaria, Pavona, Pachyseris, Lobophyllia, *Porites Recruit, Gardineroseris
Seychelles Bottom Time: 438 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 23.4 meters
Dive #11	14/4/2011
Dive Time: 13:25	Bottom Time: 46 minutes
Max Depth: 12.2 meters	Water Temperature: 29
Visibility: 8-10 meters
Air Consumption: 2700 psi → 1800 psi
Gear: No weights, Short-sleeve beneath Long-sleeve rashguard
Notes: Coral Spot Dive w/Brian, Meg, Amelia. ID: Pocillopora, Porites, Goniopora, Fungia, Acanthastrea, Stylophora, Pavona, Herpolitha, Echinophyllia, Mycedium, Gardineroseris, Hydnophora, Pachyseris, Lobophyllia, *Fungia → Cycloseris, Physogyra, Gardineroseris, Astreopora, Physogyra, Symphilia
Seychelles Bottom Time: 484 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 23.4 meters
Dive #12	15/4/2011
Dive Time: 16:27	Bottom Time: 48 minutes
Max Depth: 8.2 meters	Water Temperature: 29
Visibility: 8-10 meters
Air Consumption: 2600 psi → 1700 psi
Gear: No weights, Long-sleeve rashguard
Notes: Coral Spot Dive w/Lee, Nick, Will. ID: *Physogyra → Montipora (extended tentacles!), Porites, Goniopora, Montipora, Psammocora, Stylophora, Gardineroseris, Hydnophora, Psammocora, *Fungia → Herpolitha (second guessed myself), *Leptoseris → Pavona (second guessed myself), Echinophyllia, Acanthastrea, Podabacia, Psammocora, Turbinaria, Astreopora, Lobophyllia, Pavona
Seychelles Bottom Time: 532 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 23.4 meters

WK 2: Plankton, Turtles, and Superheroes

Dive groups prepare for descent.

Life on base continues to forge forward at wake breaking speeds. We kicked off week 2 with Monday Turtle Dives and a Plankton Pull (welcome deviations from our coral spot dives). In regards to corals, Friday marked the conclusion of review lectures on the 14 families and 50 genera of hard corals we'll be surveying. And to top it all off, we ended the week with a superhero themed Friday Night BBQ. Despite information overload and the demanding schedule, diving everyday in the company of such inspiring people made it all worth while.

Incidental turtle sightings are logged and recorded (as well as other megafauna), however this data supplements specific behavioral turtle dives conducted weekly within Bay Ternay Marine Park. During these dives, our intent is to identify and record all behavior exhibited during the sighting (e.g. sleeping, swimming, feeding, characteristics, etc.) with an emphasis on feeding and feed types. If a turtle is found, we follow it for as long as possible, creating valuable data into feeding and behavioral habits. With the data we collect, we aim to fill the gap in knowledge of marine turtle feeding ecology.

Listening intently to the skipper's brief.

Usually, Turtle Dives are conducted on Wednesdays, but due to unfavorable tides we started off the week in search of turtles instead. These dives were conducted in buddy pairs across the bay. Each set of divers swam off in a U-pattern, zig-zagging back and forth toward a set bearing in hopes of crossing paths with a turtle. Though my buddy and I were not so lucky in our quest for the elusive turtle, other divers were able to find and follow both hawksbill and green turtles for a considerable amount of time- beaming with pride and joy that was shared by all of us when they shared the news.

But this week our turtle experience wasn't confined to underwater monitoring. The next day, a local man brought up three baby hawksbill turtles from the beach to the base. The hatchlings were taken inside and looked after, while the rest of the base raced down to the beach in hopes of finding the nest or more hatchlings. Despite the enthusiastic search, no more turtles or tracks were found- we think that the rising tide swept a few hatchlings to shore from an inaccessible shoreline in the bay. So, we waited for the tide to go out and set the hatchlings on their way to the open ocean at dusk- hoping and praying that one day they'd return to the bay as adults.

We conduct weekly plankton collections outside Bay Ternay Marine Park in the Conception channel to assist Marine Conservation Society Seychelles' (MCSS) on-going whale shark monitoring program. At 5 separate GPS marked locations within the channel, we tow and retrieve a plankton net through the water at set depths down to 50 meters. The samples we collect provide MCSS with information about plankton blooms, productivity levels, and species presence. This data is incredibly valuable in studying the seasonal occurrence and population abundance of whale sharks within Seychelles coastal waters. So of course, I was ecstatic to go out and give the plankton pull a try...

If only my enthusiasm could have had a more direct influence on my endurance. The net retrieval was much easier said than done. After my 2 minute pull, my arms had had enough plankton for the week. That being said, if I'm ever on another plankton pull, I will do my darndest to pull the line in faster, even if just by a second- can't let microscopic plankton get the best of me!

A view of base: so fresh and so clean, clean.

Back on land, Latin names surged around everyone's heads as we did our best to keep afloat in the sea of new terminology. Now that we've finished reviews, it's up to each individual to familiarize him or herself with every coral's key features for efficient identification underwater. It's was easy to become overwhelmed on land- the Latin names, the dubious photo-flashcards, and self-doubt easily stressed out even the most grounded person. But it all seemed to come together (for the most part) when we went underwater for our coral spots. Sure, every now and again, genera names got mixed up or we just felt like our heads were filled with water; but we've truly made incredible progress from day one of our coral studies.

Superheroes gather for a super satisfying Friday BBQ.

Feeling heroic (and a tad bit exhausted) after the week's endeavors, the Superhero themed BBQ was a great success! Food and company were extraordinary. Tasty ribs, burgers, and sausages as well as sweet chili, lentil burgers, and roasted vegetables filled the bellies of superheroes and "super-selves" alike. Bed sheets, discarded clothing, and the like served as superhero flair as we all ate the week's most satisfying meal. It was a BBQ that would have leaped off the pages of a comic book with a satisfying "POW"!

WK 1: Breathing Underwater

Hello. My name is Victoria, and I am an Emergency First Responder and Advanced Open Water Diver. May I help you?

My first week on base has blazed by in a blink of an eye; and yet, as I settle into the daily routine it feels like I've been here for months. Most of the activity has been centered around Advanced Open Water certification, Emergency First Responder certification, coral study, and orientations.


A typical day for me begins at dark-thirty in the morning. I make my best to tip-toe silently out of the dorm for a little 7K loop to the nearest bus stop and back. Wearing a headlamp, I run with the ocean waves as my soundtrack. It's a great way to start the day. I find it peaceful and relaxing- it's my "alone" time and it's definitely an adventure.

It's still dark when I return to base, but the morning light seems to time itself perfectly for breakfast and morning duties at 6AM. Depending on the day and the week, an individual will either be responsible for tanks, grounds, boat, or kitchen duty. While on tank duty, the tanks are to be filled and stored in the kit room. Grounds is basic base maintenance and cleaning. Boat duty requires individuals to crew the dive boat, maintain radio contact with active dives, and ensure that the boat has all the equipment required. Lastly, kitchen duty is all about making yummy meals. If it weren't for the time crunch, kitchen duty would be my favorite.

Steph loads her kit into the van (the trailer is out of commission for a while)

This week's dives were tailored to specific dive situations and requirements for Advanced Open Water Certification. The first was a Peak Performance Buoyancy Dive where each diver must determine his or her optimal weight belt configuration for neutral buoyancy and then perform buoyancy skills underwater. The skills included hovering and swimming through hoops. With neutral buoyancy mastered, coral surveys will be much more efficient since diver's will need to get incredibly close to the reef (without touching!) in order to distinguish between certain corals. Depending on the exposure suit I wear, a full 3/4 wetsuit or a 2mm jacket, I wear a 4lb or 2lb weight belt- but, if I were to dive with just a rashguard I could dive without a belt!

The second certification dive was a Boat Dive. This was a very straightforward scenario, requiring a diver to launch from a boat. The skill aspect to this type of dive is determining the right way to enter the water and descend to begin the dive as well as knowing how to ascend and re-board the boat after the dive. All of the dives I will be doing while conducting coral surveys will be from a small boat, so I use a backwards roll to enter the water and re-board using a retractable ladder at the stern.

The next certification dive conducted was the Underwater Naturalist Dive. I was able to distinguish between nearly every coral that was pointed out- although one genus did trip me up because I did not get a close enough look. The reef was teeming with aquatic life and I saw a bright nudibranch, a number of sea cucumbers, big ominous looking urchins, delicate green algae, and even a sea turtle! This was definitely one of my favorite dives so far because it was a small preview of the type of work I'll be doing soon.

Dani and Liz walking out to the boat.

One of the more "entertaining" certification dives was Underwater Navigation. This required diving buddy pairs to navigate around the reef using a compass and natural formations as necessary. But before we could traverse the reef, my buddy and I had to determine how many kick cycles it would take to travel 20 and 30 meters. We swam above a tape measure laid out on the ocean floor and while counting our kicks- I was spot on with 18 kicks for 20m and another 9 kicks for the last 10m. Once we had general idea of how far we were swimming, we set out navigating 20 meters out and back using natural navigation and then a reciprocal heading. These two tasks were fine... however navigating a square required a little more effort. Despite its simple geometric shape, one must account for drift, current, and, of course, diver error. My buddy and I were successful at completing our square pattern around the reef the second time around. It was an excellent exercise in learning to use a compass underwater and I learned how to use a surface marker buoy without getting (too) tangled up in the line.

Advanced Open Water Divers!

Friday's Deep Dive was the final Advanced Open Water Certification dives. This dive took us about 24 meters underwater where we performed a few simple skills, saw the effects of water on light and color, and maintained buoyancy at a greater depth. The only downside (pun intended) to this dive was that it was much shorter than our other dives, only about 25 minutes as opposed to 45, to compensate for the increased depth.

Everyone celebrated the first week on the base during Friday's BBQ. It was a delicious feast of burgers, chicken, and sausage (meat is a real treat!). We also had amazing sweet vegetable chili sauce, grilled vegetables, fresh humus, rice, and oven-hot cinnamon cookies to top it all off. I went to bed extraordinarily satisfied from dinner, good company, and the week as a whole. The only thing that could possibly be better are the weeks to come.