WK 16: Search & Rescue

Sunset, North Mahe, Seychelles

Bel Ombre's harbor is a symphony of nautical proportions. A fisherman barks orders to his crew as his boat returns to port with the day's catch. Hands pull, feet scuffle and eyes focus in concert. Chains clank rhythmically with the waves and engines roar and rev. An all but attentive audience of onlookers chatter idly, adding a subtle drone to the daily movement.

The harbor is silent below the surface of its oil slicked waters. Sound is muted. Sand and silt obscure my vision. In this sensory abyss, a heightened sense of despair wells up inside my chest. I combat the hopelessness, squinting my eyes in an effort to pierce through the murky water. I strain my ears, hoping to hear an electronic alert shatter the underwater silence. There is nothing. Nothing but sand and silt.

I've scoured the bottom of the harbor for what seems like an eternity. My dive computer is somewhere here below the waves of the world, nestled in the sand, settling in the silt. Silent. I am about to give up completely, call it quits. The sea has won this battle. Who am I to wrestle with waves that rock the world?

Surfacing between the two Blue Sea Divers' boats, I tread water and let my gaze wander. The sun is low in the afternoon sky. I tread water. Clouds drift lazily in the atmosphere. I tread water. Ferry terns dart playfully above the harbor. I tread water. Fifteen minutes of pain flash before my eyes jolting me back to the present moment- I can't give up now.

I take a breath and dive down for one last search. Disregarding my futile search pattern I estimate the distance from shore and dart below the tethered boats. No sound. No sight. Just sand and silt, silt, silt... Then, as I draw close to the end of my breath I see something materialize from the muck. Directly beneath the boat, my dive computer sits silently on the sand, half buried in silt and still logging a 'dive' over 900 minutes at 2.5 meters.

Search. 

Recovery. 

Success.

*****

Batfish and I

I'm halfway through the divemaster internship at Blue Sea and still surprises abound. Last Sunday, I was the dive shop's solo divemaster; later on in the week I survived one of the most chaotic night dives in history; and despite the odds, I rescued my dive computer from the ocean's grasp. On land and underwater, the week was nothing short of amazing.

Sunday was intense. I was the only divemaster in the shop. Sleep deprived and slightly miffed at being left to dry, I was hardly in a good mood. I shook off the morning blues and led all 3 dives, letting the water clear my head of lingering negative thoughts. Had my fellow divemasters not chosen to bask in the sun adjacent to the shop, my day would have been brighter for sure. But I kept a cool head, focusing on the day's dives and each one's unique experience. The mental effort was more taxing than the fifteen minute tread.

I was supposed to take Thursday off- but didn't want to miss out on dives, so I went to work after lunch. I led the afternoon dive at Sunset Rocks and partook in a night dive that will go down in history (if it hasn't already) as one of the most ridiculous diving pursuits of all time. It started out so well. The boat was waiting. We had our four clients kit up and ready to go. Then, a few men sauntered in and inquired about diving. For better or worse, the boss was more than happy to accommodate the four boisterous fellows. After that, everything fell to pieces.

The dive plan was scrapped and a new one scribbled down to accommodate doubling the number of divers. Kits were thrown together and rushed out to the boat. Time was stretched thin as silhouettes clambered about in the day's waning light. It was shear madness and the situation only got worse underwater.

Underwater solace

I led the four loud men with Natacha. They blazed through their air and waved their flashlights about haphazardly, disregarding any guidance or effort from Natacha and myself. I must have repressed most of the memories from that night. The moments I do recall are singular snapshots: underwater chaos, beams of light, sitting alone at the bottom of the ocean in disbelief, the safety stop with Natacha as we recovered from the night's unexpected exertion, and the sound of my dive computer as it hit the water, disappearing instantly at Bel Ombre's harbor. It was a most amazing night in some of the worst possible ways.

Thankfully, I survived the week's challenges and experienced the upside-of-down when I rescued my dive computer. It was a trying time in and out of the shop. Though stretched thin and pushed to my limits, I can honestly look back and say that it was a good week.

WK 15: 100 Days, 100 Dives

It's hot. Flames dance about me, framing my figure in a circle of fire. I concentrate on not setting myself aflame, attempting to complete a flurry of twirls and spins. If done correctly, the movement will appear effortless. If not, I'll endure the same fate as the fish and burgers on the BBQ. No need to fret. I've never done this before, but I don't worry. I don't sweat. It's a tango with fire, so I dance.

****

It was a long week, but as the fatigue settles into the marrow of my bones, I know I've been working well. Leading dives, ensuring an enjoyable and quality diving experience is taxing, but worth the smiles and looks of enchantment when a customer comes face to face with a shark or has a chance to swim with a turtle. Every day I learn something new, every day I breathe a little deeper and swim a little stronger. This is living fully.

I've logged over 100 dives and passed the 100 day mark since arriving in the Seychelles. Somehow, I'm still kicking (literally). A thousand thanks to family and friends, near and far- you are truly my inspiration to live more fully by being a part of my life. Here's to the next 100!

Seychelles Dive Log #7

By the Numbers: Bi-Weekly Dive Log
Dive #73 (BSD 22)	27/6/2011
Dive Time: 09:41	Bottom Time: 50 minutes
Max Depth: 14.5 meters	Water Temperature: 27
Visibility: 5-7 meters
Air Consumption: 210 bar - 150 bar
Gear: BSD full 3/2 wetsuit, 1kg weight in Junior BSD BCD pockets, 12L AL Tank, BSD full foot fins (36/37).
Notes: Lead Dive @ Grambazara w/Adam, 2 clients. DSMB ascent. Puffer under rock, nudibranch x2, COT x3, eagle ray (~1 meter), red murex shell, peppered moray, huge hawksbill (~1 meter carapace).
Seychelles Bottom Time: 3387 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 40.8 meters
Dive #74 (BSD 23)	27/6/2011
Dive Time: 11:15	Bottom Time: 57 minutes
Max Depth: 11.8 meters	Water Temperature: 27
Visibility: 5-7 meters
Air Consumption: 150 bar - 80 bar
Gear: BSD full 3/2 wetsuit, 1kg weight in Junior BSD BCD pockets, 12L AL Tank, BSD full foot fins (36/37).
Notes: Fun Dive @ Sunset Rocks w/Adam. Sent up anchor parachute. Large moray, giant conch, COT.
Seychelles Bottom Time: 3444 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 40.8 meters
Dive #75 (BSD 24)	28/6/2011
Dive Time: 09:39	Bottom Time: 42 minutes
Max Depth: 12.9 meters	Water Temperature: 27
Visibility: 5-7 meters
Air Consumption: 220 bar - 170 bar
Gear: BSD full 3/2 wetsuit, 1kg weight in Junior BSD BCD pockets, 12L AL Tank, BSD full foot fins (36/37).
Notes: Lead Dive @ Aquarium w/Natacha, Simon, 2 clients. Peppered moray, possible Alveopora!
Seychelles Bottom Time: 3486 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 40.8 meters
Dive #76 (BSD 25)	29/6/2011
Dive Time: 09:42	Bottom Time: 39 minutes
Max Depth: 3.7 meters	Water Temperature: 27
Visibility: 5-7 meters
Air Consumption: 220 bar - 190 bar
Gear: BSD fshorty 3/2 wetsuit, IST Proline LS Rashguard, 2kg weight belt, Junior BSD BCD, 10L ST Tank, BSD full foot fins (36/37).
Notes: Skills dive @ Beau Vallon w/Ara, Simon. Extremely overweighted to ensure negative buoyancy for underwater gear swap/buddy breathing; demonstration of underwater mask removal/replacement (r/r), regulator retrieval, weightbelt r/r; demonstration of surface BCD r/r, weightbelt r/r.
Seychelles Bottom Time: 3525 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 40.8 meters
Dive #77 (BSD 26)	29/6/2011
Dive Time: 14:44	Bottom Time: 58 minutes
Max Depth: 17.1 meters	Water Temperature: 26
Visibility: 4-6 meters
Air Consumption: 220 bar - 120 bar
Gear: BSD 3/2 full wetsuit, IST Proline LS Rashguard, Junior BSD BCD, 10L ST Tank, BSD full foot fins (36/37).
Notes: Fun dive @ Aquarium w/Sylvain, Susanne, Adam. Cowrie x2, marble ray (1-1.5 meters).
Seychelles Bottom Time: 3583 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 40.8 meters
Dive #78 (BSD 27)	30/6/2011
Dive Time: 10:31	Bottom Time: 53 minutes
Max Depth: 4.9 meters	Water Temperature: 27
Visibility: 4-6 meters
Air Consumption: 210 bar - 180 bar
Gear: BSD 3/2 shorty, IST Proline LS Rashguard, Junior BSD BCD, 1kg weight belt, 10L AL Tank, BSD full foot fins (36/37).
Notes: Skills dive @ Beau Valon w/Ara, Simon. Buoyancy check at surface; Demonstrate underwater mask r/r, regulator retrieval, fin pivot, 30 second hover, maskless swim, freeflow regulator breathing.
Seychelles Bottom Time: 3636 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 40.8 meters
Dive #79 (BSD 28)	1/7/2011
Dive Time: 14:52	Bottom Time: 38 minutes
Max Depth: 22.9 meters	Water Temperature: 27
Visibility: 4-6 meters
Air Consumption: 210 bar - 150 bar
Gear: BSD 3/2 shorty, IST Proline LS Rashguard, 1kg weight in Junior BSD BCD pocket, 10L AL Tank, 3/2 Booties, BSD full foot fins (40/41).
Notes: Lead Assist Dive @ Twin Barges w/Susanne, 3 clients. Buddied w/Chris (Open Water). Playful swim around barges (upside down, twirling, somersaults). Lionfish, porcupinefish x2, moray eel x3, nudibranch x2. Early ascent due to 70 bar limit for client.
Seychelles Bottom Time: 3674 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 40.8 meters
Dive #80 (BSD 29)	3/7/2011
Dive Time: 09:59	Bottom Time: 43 minutes
Max Depth: 13.5 meters	Water Temperature: 27
Visibility: 6-8 meters
Air Consumption: 220 bar - 150 bar
Gear: BSD 3/2 full wetsuit, IST Proline LS Rashguard, 2kg weights in Junior BSD BCD pocket, 12L AL Tank, 3/2 Booties, BSD full foot fins (40/41).
Notes: Lead Assist Dive @ Horse Shoe Rocks w/Vera, 6 clients. Early ascent w/2 clients. Porcupine fish, moray eel x2, leaf fish?, black mini eel?, lionfish x3
Seychelles Bottom Time: 3717 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 40.8 meters
Dive #81 (BSD 30)	3/7/2011
Dive Time: 12:09	Bottom Time: 57 minutes
Max Depth: 12.8 meters	Water Temperature: 27
Visibility: 6-8 meters
Air Consumption: 150 bar - 80 bar
Gear: BSD 3/2 full wetsuit, IST Proline LS Rashguard, 2kg weight in Junior BSD BCD pocket, 12L AL Tank, 3/2 Booties, BSD full foot fins (40/41).
Notes: Fun Dive @ Aquarium w/Susanne, Simon, Marcus. Sand/camoflauge nudibranch, scorpionfish, stone fish.
Seychelles Bottom Time: 3774 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 40.8 meters
Dive #82 (BSD 31)	3/7/2011
Dive Time: 15:08	Bottom Time: 56 minutes
Max Depth: 13.5 meters	Water Temperature: 26
Visibility: 6-8 meters
Air Consumption: 210 bar - 120 bar
Gear: BSD 3/2 full wetsuit, IST Proline LS Rashguard, 2kg weights in Junior BSD BCD pocket, 10L AL Tank, 3/2 Booties, BSD full foot fins (40/41).
Notes: Fun Dive @ Near Aquarium w/Susanne, Simon. Nudibranch x3, marble ray (1.5-2 meters).
Seychelles Bottom Time: 3830 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 40.8 meters
Dive #83 (BSD 32)	5/7/2011
Dive Time: 09:35	Bottom Time: 45 minutes
Max Depth: 18.1 meters	Water Temperature: 26
Visibility: 6-8 meters
Air Consumption: 210 bar - 150 bar
Gear: BSD 3/2 full wetsuit, IST Proline LS Rashguard, 2kg weights in Junior BSD BCD pocket, 12L AL Tank, 3/2 Booties, BSD full foot fins (40/41).
Notes: Lead Assist Dive @ Baie Ternay w/Vera, Susanne. 6 clients. -1kg for client, Early ascent. Painted lobsters, pufferfish, stonefish. moray eel, lionfish, nudibranch x3, hawksbill turtle swimming w/batfish.
Seychelles Bottom Time: 3875 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 40.8 meters
Dive #84 (BSD 33)	5/7/2011
Dive Time: 11:33	Bottom Time: 59 minutes
Max Depth: 15.9 meters	Water Temperature: 26
Visibility: 6-8 meters
Air Consumption: 150 bar - 90 bar
Gear: BSD 3/2 full wetsuit, IST Proline LS Rashguard, 2kg weights in Junior BSD BCD pocket, 12L AL Tank, 3/2 Booties, BSD full foot fins (40/41).
Notes: Lead Assist Dive @ Coral Garden w/Vera, Susanne, 2 clients. Painted lobsters, nudibranch x2,
Seychelles Bottom Time: 3934 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 40.8 meters
Dive #85 (BSD 34)	5/7/2011
Dive Time: 18:22	Bottom Time: 41 minutes
Max Depth: 23.5 meters	Water Temperature: 25
Visibility: -
Air Consumption: 220 bar - 140 bar
Gear: BSD 3/2 full wetsuit, IST Proline LS Rashguard, 1kg weight in Junior BSD BCD pocket, 10L AL Tank, 3/2 Booties, BSD full foot fins (40/41).
Notes: First Night Dive @ Twin Barges w/Susanne, Simon, Adam. Explored both barges, huge pufferfish, puffers, porcupines, lionfish x5, sleeping parrotfish, nudibranch, hairy hermit crab, moray eel, glowing plankton.
Seychelles Bottom Time: 3975 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 40.8 meters
Dive #86 (BSD 35)	7/7/2011
Dive Time: 09:26	Bottom Time: 37 minutes
Max Depth: 41.1 meters	Water Temperature: 26
Visibility: 7-9 meters
Air Consumption: 200 bar - 120 bar
Gear: BSD 3/2 full wetsuit, IST Proline LS Rashguard, 1kg weight in Junior BSD BCD pocket, 10L AL Tank, 3/2 Booties, BSD full foot fins (40/41).
Notes: Aldabaran Wreck w/Ara, 2 clients. New Max Depth! Pufferfish, porcupinefish, peppered morays, lionfish.
Seychelles Bottom Time: 4012 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 41.1 meters
Dive #87 (BSD 36)	7/7/2011
Dive Time: 14:31	Bottom Time: 50 minutes
Max Depth: 16.4 meters	Water Temperature: 26
Visibility: 7-9 meters
Air Consumption: 200 bar - 100 bar
Gear: BSD 3/2 full wetsuit, IST Proline LS Rashguard, 1kg weight in Junior BSD BCD pocket, 10L AL Tank, 3/2 Booties, BSD full foot fins (40/41).
Notes: Lead Dive @ Coral Garden w/2 clients. Learning the names of common fish. Lionfish, scorpionfish, hawksbill followed by batfish, orange-striped triggerfish, bird wrasse, parrotfish, peacock groupers, angelfish, butterflyfish, parrot surgeonfish, anenomefish, spider conch (x3).
Seychelles Bottom Time: 4062 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 41.1 meters
Dive #88 (BSD 37)	8/7/2011
Dive Time: 09:54	Bottom Time: 32 minutes
Max Depth: 20.8 meters	Water Temperature: 27
Visibility: 7-9 meters
Air Consumption: 220 bar - 180 bar
Gear: BSD 3/2 full wetsuit, IST Proline LS Rashguard, 2kg weight in Junior BSD BCD pocket, 12L AL Tank, 3/2 Booties, BSD full foot fins (40/41).
Notes: Fun Dive @ Baie Ternay w/Adam. Nudibranch x3, black & yellow ribbon eel, huge sweetlips, batfish, guineafowl puffer.
Seychelles Bottom Time: 4094 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 41.1 meters
Dive #89 (BSD 38)	8/7/2011
Dive Time: 11:20	Bottom Time: 53 minutes
Max Depth: 16.9 meters	Water Temperature: 26
Visibility: 6-8 meters
Air Consumption: 180 bar - 120 bar
Gear: BSD 3/2 full wetsuit, IST Proline LS Rashguard, 2kg weight in Junior BSD BCD pocket, 12L AL Tank, 3/2 Booties, BSD full foot fins (40/41).
Notes: Lead Assist Dive @ Baie Ternay w/Adam, 2 clients. White leaf fish x2, ornate spiney lobster, lionfish, yellow-margined moray, coral clam.
Seychelles Bottom Time: 4147 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 41.1 meters
Dive #90 (BSD 39)	9/7/2011
Dive Time: 09:40	Bottom Time: 42 minutes
Max Depth: 18.1 meters	Water Temperature: 27
Visibility: 6-8 meters
Air Consumption: 200 bar - 100 bar
Gear: BSD 3/2 full wetsuit over 3/2 shorty, IST Proline LS Rashguard, 2kg weight in Junior BSD BCD pocket, 10L AL Tank, 3/2 Booties, BSD full foot fins (40/41).
Notes: Lead Dive @ L'ilot w/Adam, 2 clients. Pufferfish, porcupinefish, huge grouper, oriental sweetlips, humphead parrotfish, eagle ray.
Seychelles Bottom Time: 4189 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 41.1 meters
Dive #91 (BSD 40)	9/7/2011
Dive Time: 11:12	Bottom Time: 59 minutes
Max Depth: 14.9 meters	Water Temperature: 26
Visibility: 6-8 meters
Air Consumption: 200 bar - 100 bar
Gear: BSD 3/2 full wetsuit over 3/2 shorty, IST Proline LS Rashguard, 1kg weight in Junior BSD BCD pocket, 10L AL Tank, 3/2 Booties, BSD full foot fins (40/41).
Notes: Fun Dive @ Grambazara w/Adam. Pufferfish, porcupinefish, nudibranch, peppered moray.
Seychelles Bottom Time: 4248 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 41.1 meters

WK 14: Day & Night

The sun sets fire to the sky as it sinks slowly into the sea. Rays of light pierce through distant storm clouds as the day fends off night's onset. The setting sun's fiery light illuminates Blue Sea Divers assembling kits as our boat anchors at Twin Barges. Peering over my shoulder, I chance a glimpse at the horizon and catch the last sliver of sun before it plunges into the water. My heart skips a beat as the light fades. Kit assembled, flashlight in hand, I'm ready for my first night dive.

*****

This past week was incredibly satisfying in and out of the water. Diving continued to offer new challenges and experiences from the daily routine to my first night dive. When I wasn't in the water, I made the most of my time pursuing the Enriched Air Diver (EANx) certification and passing Part 1 of the Divemaster written exam. Day or night, soaking or studying, it was a good week.

I returned to Baie Ternay for a number of dives over the last few days. Thankfully, the visibility was much better than my first homecoming, improving the whole dive experience for myself and the clients alike. I was not as stressed about losing divers who in turn were able to explore a bit more. The bay also offered up a number of aquatic favorites including some harder to find creatures like lobsters and leafish. Clients surfaced with smiles and memories to bring home- a priceless souvenir. Baie Ternay truly lived up to being one of Mahe's best dive sites.

While diving in the bay would have been enough to have me beaming for another week or two, my first night dive was the highlight of the week's adventures. I decided not to participate in a night dive while living on base at Cap Ternay in hopes of having the chance resurface while working as a divemaster- as luck would have it, I got my second chance. I dove at Twin Barges and discovered a completely new underwater world. Glowing plankton greeted me as I descended upon the barges, shining my flashlight into the dark depths. The wrecks were wide awake with a myriad of aquatic life. A huge pufferfish manned the deep barge while lionfish floated about unconcerned. Curiously, many fish were nestled into the barges rusted nooks and crannies for what I assumed would be their night's rest. My first night dive was nothing short of remarkable. It was definitely worth waiting for the experience.

I dried off and took straight to the books this past week. Leaving no time to waste, I completed and passed the EANx course on Monday. With the certification, I am qualified to utilize enriched air during dives allowing for longer bottom times and reduce the amount of nitrogen build up during repetitive dive situations. Coupled with my curiously low air consumption, diving with EANx will ensure that I spend as much quality time underwater as possible. In addition to the passing the EANx course, I passed Part 1 of the Divemaster written exam which covered standards and procedures. Part 2 has been saved for next week, so the books have remained open for a possible weekend study session.

Week 14 wrapped itself up in a flurry of adventures, the days blurring together- exact time and date hardly distinguishable between one pursuit endeavor to the next. I've continued to grow as a diver and an individual; discovering a sense of adventure and self with every dive and every setting sun.

WK 13: 25

Bubbles, then shadows. Shifting shapes and faint forms. Divers drift into focus from the blue depths. I barrel roll to check on my buddy with a flick of my fins, taking silent delight in the aquatic acrobatics. My buddy signals "okay" as I twirl round for a double take of the new dive group. They round the perimeter of the wreck and I recognize a pair of eyes, two, three- it's Meg, Shelby, and Julia from the Underwater Centre! Beaming through my regulator, I wave enthusiastically to my friends from Cap Ternay. From open water expedition members to divemaster interns, we've come so far in the past thirteen weeks. Since moving to Beau Valon, contact with interns at the other dive shops has been sporadic at best. I could not think of a more appropriate reunion than 18 meters below the surface, swimming into our roles as divemasters. It was the perfect birthday surprise.

*****

Cheers to the last twenty five years and all the people and experiences that have made it worth the while.

Seychelles Dive Log #6

By the Numbers: Bi-Weekly Dive Log
Dive #53 (BSD 2)	13/6/2011
Dive Time: 09:55	Bottom Time: 44 minutes
Max Depth: 8.3 meters	Water Temperature: 28
Visibility: 8-10 meters
Air Consumption: 200 bar - 150 bar
Gear: 3/4 full wetsuit, 2kg weight belt, 12L AL Tank, XXS BSD BCD
Notes: Skills Dive @ Twin Barges w/Susanne, Adam, Simon, Kim, Natasha. Assisted Ascent/Unconscious, Nonbreathing, Tired Diver/Malfunctioning Regulator/Out of Air Scenarios.
Seychelles Bottom Time: 2458 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 23.4 meters
Dive #54 (BSD 3)	13/6/2011
Dive Time: 12:20	Bottom Time: 27 minutes
Max Depth: 14.8 meters	Water Temperature: 28
Visibility: 6-8 meters
Air Consumption: 150 bar - 130 bar
Gear: 3/4 full wetsuit, 2kg weight belt, 12L AL Tank, XXS BSD BCD
Notes: Skills Dive @ Aquarium w/Susanne, Adam, Simon, Kim, Natasha. Assisted Ascent Scenario followed by a quick fun dive integrating Out of Air Scenario.
Seychelles Bottom Time: 2485 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 23.4 meters
Dive #55 (BSD 4)	14/6/2011
Dive Time: 11:42	Bottom Time: 32 minutes
Max Depth: 15.4 meters	Water Temperature: 28
Visibility: 5-7 meters
Air Consumption: 200 bar - 150 bar
Gear: Blue Sea Divers full wetsuit, 3kg weight belt, 12L AL Tank, XXS BSD BCD
Notes: Missing Diver Scenario & Fun Dive @ Coral Garden w/Marcus, Natasha, Adam, Simon, Susan. Nudibranch, Blue & Yellow Triggerfish (Maze Pattern!)
Seychelles Bottom Time: 2517 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 23.4 meters
Dive #56 (BSD 5)	15/6/2011
Dive Time: 09:33	Bottom Time: 53 minutes
Max Depth: 22.7 meters	Water Temperature: 27
Visibility: 4-6 meters
Air Consumption: 190 bar - 120 bar
Gear: BSD full wetsuit, 3kg weight belt + 1kg in BCD, 12L AL Tank, XXS BSD BCD
Notes: First Wreck Dive @ Twin Barges w/Marcus, Susanne. 7 Lionfish hanging out on deck, many peppered moray eels (tiny juveniles to large adults), porcupine fish hiding in exhaust pipe.
Seychelles Bottom Time: 2570 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 23.4 meters
Dive #57 (BSD 6)	15/6/2011
Dive Time: 11:14	Bottom Time: 55 minutes
Max Depth: 13.3 meters	Water Temperature: 27
Visibility: 7-9 meters
Air Consumption: 190 bar - 150 bar
Gear: BSD full wetsuit, 3kg weight belt + 1kg in BCD, 12L AL Tank, XXS BSD BCD
Notes: Fun Dive @ Grambazara w/Marcus, Susanne. 3 Crown of Thorns Starfish! 2 scorpionfish, peppered moray eel.
Seychelles Bottom Time: 2625 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 23.4 meters
Dive #58 (BSD 7)	16/6/2011
Dive Time: 09:34	Bottom Time: 32 minutes
Max Depth: 39.8 meters	Water Temperature: 27
Visibility: 6-8 meters
Air Consumption: 230 bar - 160 bar
Gear: BSD full wetsuit, 3kg weight belt + 1kg in BCD, 12L AL Tank, XXS BSD BCD/th>
Notes: First Decompression Dive @ Aldabaren Wreck w/Marcus, Sylvain, Simon. Inches from a concealed giant ray at the bottom, numerous peppered moray eels, lionfish, porcupine fish.
Seychelles Bottom Time: 2657 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 39.8 meters
Dive #59 (BSD 8)	16/6/2011
Dive Time: 11:27	Bottom Time: 51 minutes
Max Depth: 11.3 meters	Water Temperature: 28
Visibility: 5-7 meters
Air Consumption: 230 bar - 150 bar
Gear: BSD full wetsuit, 3kg weight belt + 1kg in BCD, 10L AL Tank, XXS BSD BCD
Notes: Fun Dive @ Sunset Rocks w/Marcus, Susanne. Peppered moray eel, nudibranch, school of bat fish.
Seychelles Bottom Time: 2708 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 39.8 meters
Dive #60 (BSD 9)	17/6/2011
Dive Time: 09:51	Bottom Time: 55 minutes
Max Depth: 22.8 meters	Water Temperature: 28
Visibility: 5-7 meters
Air Consumption: 200 bar - 130 bar
Gear: BSD full wetsuit, 3kg weight belt, 10L AL Tank, XXS BSD BCD
Notes: First lead dive @ Twin Barges w/client, Susanne, Ara. Completed both wrecks ~35 minutes, shallow coral loop to end dive at anchor site. Nudibranch, juvenile peppered moray eel, conch shell.
Seychelles Bottom Time: 2763 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 39.8 meters
Dive #61 (BSD 10)	17/6/2011
Dive Time: 11:33	Bottom Time: 48 minutes
Max Depth: 13.8 meters	Water Temperature: 28
Visibility: 6-8 meters
Air Consumption: 200 bar - 130 bar
Gear: BSD full wetsuit, 2kg weight belt, 10L AL Tank, XXS BSD BCD
Notes: Susanne led dive @ Aquarium w/client, Ara. Completed loops around 2 of 3 pinnacles, Ara simulated out of air scenario & had me complete a mask removal during safety stop. Porcupinefish, halomitra, nudibranch, anenome fish, Chinese trumpet fish.
Seychelles Bottom Time: 2811 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 39.8 meters
Dive #62 (BSD 11)	18/6/2011
Dive Time: 9:30	Bottom Time: 53 minutes
Max Depth: 14.4 meters	Water Temperature: 27
Visibility: 5-7 meters
Air Consumption: 220 bar - 130 bar
Gear: BSD full wetsuit, 2kg weights in Junior BSD BCD pockets, 10L AL Tank, swapped to BSD full foot fins (size 36-37).
Notes: Fun Dive w/Susanne, Return diver @ Aquarium. Junior BCD fits comfortably & full foot fins feel much more efficient than my open foot fins. Out of air scenario w/Ara during dive. Hawksbill, mantis shrimp, painted lobster, hairy hermit crab, nudibranch, camoflage grouper, large silver grouper w/yellow trumpet fish, clown fish (nemo!).
Seychelles Bottom Time: 2864 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 39.8 meters
Dive #63 (BSD 12)	18/6/2011
Dive Time: 11:18	Bottom Time: 54 minutes
Max Depth: 18.3 meters	Water Temperature: 26
Visibility: 5-7 meters
Air Consumption: 220 bar - 130 bar
Gear: BSD full wetsuit, 1kg weight in Junior BSD BCD pockets, 10L AL Tank, BSD full foot fins.
Notes: Fun Dive w/Susanne, client @ Twin Barges. Stayed on shallow wreck and reef. Moray eel, hairy hermit crab hiding in rusted mooring, lionfish regulars on wreck, black lionfish on shallow reef, oriental sweetlips, silver spotted sweetlips.
Seychelles Bottom Time: 2918 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 39.8 meters
Dive #64 (BSD 13)	19/6/2011
Dive Time: 10:09	Bottom Time: 47 minutes
Max Depth: 18.8 meters	Water Temperature: 27
Visibility: 1-3 meters
Air Consumption: 200 bar - 130 bar
Gear: BSD full wetsuit, 2kg weights in Junior BSD BCD pockets, 12L AL Tank, BSD full foot fins.
Notes: 2nd Lead Dive @ Baie Ternay! w/3 clients, Susanne, Ara. Extra kg for clients, extremely poor visibility, challenge to maintain sight of buddy pairs, successfully navigated reef and return route, no lost divers.
Seychelles Bottom Time: 2965 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 39.8 meters
Dive #65 (BSD 14)	19/6/2011
Dive Time: 11:53	Bottom Time: 48 minutes
Max Depth: 13.2 meters	Water Temperature: 27
Visibility: 6-8 meters
Air Consumption: 130 bar - 70 bar
Gear: BSD full wetsuit, 2kg weights in Junior BSD BCD pockets, 10L AL Tank, BSD full foot fins.
Notes: Susanne led dive @ Horse Shoe Rocks w/3 clients, Ara. Better visibility, but still not good. 2x around the reef, porcupinefish resting, surgeonfish, butterflyfish, angelfish.
Seychelles Bottom Time: 3013 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 39.8 meters
Dive #66 (BSD 15)	20/6/2011
Dive Time: 09:37	Bottom Time: 51 minutes
Max Depth: 18.2 meters	Water Temperature: 27
Visibility: 6-8 meters
Air Consumption: 230 bar - 160 bar
Gear: BSD full wetsuit, 2kg weight in Junior BSD BCD pockets, 12L AL Tank, BSD full foot fins.
Notes: Shadowed Vera (Divemaster) @ L'ilot w/Simon, client. Strong current and surge around island. Large rays, soft corals, moray eel.
Seychelles Bottom Time: 3064 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 39.8 meters
Dive #67 (BSD 16)	21/6/2011
Dive Time: 09:26	Bottom Time: 54 minutes
Max Depth: 12.3 meters	Water Temperature: 27
Visibility: 10-12 meters
Air Consumption: 230 bar - 140 bar
Gear: BSD full wetsuit, 2kg weight in Junior BSD BCD pockets, 10L AL Tank, BSD full foot fins.
Notes: Fun dive @ Whale Rock w/Susanne, Simon. Incredible granitic site, though clearly devastated from 1998 bleaching event and still recovering. Nudibranch, conch, clown fish, squid eggs in branching acropora.
Seychelles Bottom Time: 3118 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 39.8 meters
Dive #68 (BSD 17)	22/6/2011
Dive Time: 09:27	Bottom Time: 52 minutes
Max Depth: 40.8 meters	Water Temperature: 27
Visibility: 6-8 meters
Air Consumption: 220 bar - 130 bar
Gear: BSD full wetsuit, 1kg weight in Junior BSD BCD pockets, 12L AL Tank, BSD full foot fins.
Notes: Deco Dive @ Aldabaran Wreck w/Ara, Simon, Susanne, Adam. NEW MAX DEPTH! Cowfish, scorpionfish x2, murex beneath stern, peppered morays, Ara's name carved into side of wreck...
Seychelles Bottom Time: 3170 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 40.8 meters
Dive 69# (BSD 18)	23/6/2011
Dive Time: 09:35	Bottom Time: 46 minutes
Max Depth: 22.8 meters	Water Temperature: 27
Visibility: 3-5 meters
Air Consumption: 220 bar - 130 bar
Gear: BSD full wetsuit, 2kg weight in Junior BSD BCD pockets, 12L AL Tank, BSD full foot fins.
Notes: Lead dive @ Twin Barges w/Simon, 3 clients, Ara. Porcupinefish, moray eel, lionfish gang, nudibranch. Difficulty managing the varied skill levels, poor visibility.
Seychelles Bottom Time: 3216 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 40.8 meters
Dive #70 (BSD 19)	23/6/2011
Dive Time: 11:20	Bottom Time: 20 minutes
Max Depth: 12.6 meters	Water Temperature: 27
Visibility: 6-8 meters
Air Consumption: 130 bar - 100 bar
Gear: BSD full wetsuit, 1kg weight in Junior BSD BCD pockets, 12L AL Tank, BSD full foot fins.
Notes: Rescue skills dive @ Aquarium w/Natacha, Simon. Underwater leg cramp w/assisted ascent, Unconscious breathing diver w/assisted ascent and tow to boat.
Seychelles Bottom Time: 3236 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 40.8 meters
Dive #71 (BSD 20)	24/6/2011
Dive Time: 10:47	Bottom Time: 51 minutes
Max Depth: 13.3 meters	Water Temperature: 26
Visibility: 6-8 meters
Air Consumption: 220 bar - 70 bar
Gear: BSD full wetsuit, 2kg weight in Junior BSD BCD pockets, 10L AL Tank, BSD full foot fins.
Notes: Coral Garden w/Simon, 3 clients. Shared air w/client for last 20 minutes. Purple & brown COT, scorpionfish, clownfish, hairy hermit crab in mitre shell, shrimp.
Seychelles Bottom Time: 3287 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 40.8 meters
Dive #72 (BSD 21)	24/6/2011
Dive Time: 14:30	Bottom Time: 50 minutes
Max Depth: 8.9 meters	Water Temperature: 27
Visibility: 6-8 meters
Air Consumption: 220 bar - 150 bar
Gear: BSD full wetsuit, 1kg weight in Junior BSD BCD pockets, 10L AL Tank, BSD full foot fins.
Notes: Fun Dive @ Northolme Rocks w/Christian, Simon, Susanne, Adam. COT x3, white & green nudibranch, zebra moray eel, shrimp, flowerfish-like sea cucumber, trumpet fish. Great site!
Seychelles Bottom Time: 3337 minutes
Seychelles Max Depth: 40.8 meters

WK 12: Sink or Swim

Beau Vallon, Mahe

Were I a cloud in the ocean... like marshmallows they sugar coat an azure sky above Beau Vallon Beach. My eyes fixate upon their weightless, shape-shifting forms. I envy their effortless hover and kick for dear life just to keep my head above the surf. I take a deep breath and raise my hands above the surface for the final two minutes of the Divemaster fifteen minute tread skill test. Were I a cloud in the ocean... the thought floats through my head like a mantra. Were I a cloud in the ocean... two minutes never felt so laboriously long. Were I a cloud in the ocean... Adam, Simon, and Susanne have the energy to play a game of "I Spy". Were I a cloud in the ocean... ferry terns animate the sky with their grace. Were I a cloud in the ocean... Ara's voice shatters the trance. Time's up, hands drop. My face hints of a smile through each laborious gasp as I think to myself, clouds could never feel this alive.

*****

Two weeks into my internship at Blue Sea Divers and I couldn't be more satisfied with the time spent at the shop. I've gotten to know the staff better and I'm familiarizing myself with the odds and ends of day to day routine. In the water, practical skills for my rescue diver and divemaster certifications have been integrated into daily dives, some of which I've had a chance to lead as divemaster under the supervision of an instructor. The last two weeks have been so saturated with learning the ropes of being a divemaster and simply settling into life that, without realizing it, I've not had a day off of work (I've been forced to take today off). But I love it; and the time I spend working, whether in the water or in the shop, has been a incredible.

This past week was... interesting. First of all, we had no water on Saturday. Granted, this wasn't exactly unexpected. Seychelles has been experiencing a drought, so water has been shut off in our neighborhood from roughly 3 AM - 5 PM every day. However, on Saturday, after returning home from work the tap didn't even offer a trickle of water. Since it was a holiday, Seychelles National Day, it was reasoned that someone took the celebrations a little too far and forgot to switch on our water. But, we returned home from work on Sunday to another dry tap and then discovered that the neighbors had running water. Interesting indeed.

Blue Sea Divers, Beau Vallon

Disgruntled, dirty, and dumfounded divemaster interns and neighbors began to hunt for an answer to our water outage mystery. We traced pipes around the exterior of the house, under the overgrown pumpkin patch, around our ancient rusted chicken coop, up and over walls and fences to yet another neighbor's driveway. There, we found our water had been turned off which meant a simple fix: with one twist our water was running- and so were we, back to the house for showers!

I led two challenging dives recently. Last Sunday, I took a group of three novice divers on a tour of Baie Ternay's central reef with Susanne and Ara. Unfortunately, the homecoming wasn't quite what I had envisioned- in fact I couldn't see much of anything through the silt and plankton that reduced visibility to a mere three meters at best. It took all my effort just to keep track of the divers as I navigated a course around the reef's contour. At first I attempted to point out interesting shells and fish, but nixed the effort considering the diving conditions and focused on the whereabouts and well-being of the divers instead. Relying on an underwater compass and natural navigation, I was able to surface remarkably close to the boat without losing anyone. So far, that was one of the most stressful dives I've had, but a great learning experience as well.

My second lead dive of the week topped the first. I took three clients (a rescue and two novice divers) on a tour of Twin Barges and its shallow reef with Simon and Ara. After conducting a quick buoyancy check at the surface, I realized one of the novice divers was over-weighted and removed a kg from his BCD. I signaled for descent and got an 'okay' from everyone. Heads underwater, I made a quick sweep of the group, signalling 'okay' and receiving a unanimous 'okay' in reply. I took my eyes away from the clients to grasp the anchor line to role-model the method of descent I'd covered in the predive briefing. I looked back to the clients and saw that one had resurfaced, treading water with incredible effort. Rounding up the underwater clients, everyone returned to the surface. The stressed diver confessed a sore throat which deterred his initial decent. He was consoled and after a few moments of fresh air, signaled that he was ready to descend again... for the first time.

Fishing boat, Beau Vallon

The fun decided to follow us for a dive as well. The visibility was poor again, so navigating and keeping an eye on my divers was my main goal. One individual seemed to be afraid to get too close to the wreck, hovering a good meter or so above the barges. To complicate things further, the stressed diver blazed through his air within the first thirty minutes. Thankfully, Ara was able to ascend with the diver, allowing the other two clients, along with Simon and myself, to continue the dive along the reef. I literally breathed a sigh of relief when I was back on board the boat, all clients accounted for and smiling after the dive.

In addition to leading dives, a divemaster must pass practical skills and theory tests in order to become certified. The experience garnered from leading dives is invaluable, but the skills tests are designed to further in-water confidence while deducing one's physical and mental fitness. Our divemaster skill test for the week was a fifteen minute tread (hands above the water for the last two minutes). The difficulty of this skill varies, dependent upon the physique of the individual. Unfortunately for me, even with the extra lift from salt water, I sink like a stone. So from the onset, I was working 100%. I've never considered the merits of eating a steady diet of cake and ice cream with more earnest than I did during that test. It took all the willpower in the world not to let my hands drop. After those fifteen intense minutes and all that's occurred over the last week, all I can say is, "It's been real."